By no stretch of the imagination could you call the capital of Greece a “pretty” city. It has occupied this location from something like 4,000 years. Apart from a spectacular era as the birthplace of modern democracy and culture, it has spent most of that time languishing as an overpopulated labyrinth of modern buildings surrounding monumental collections of ancient stone.
With high unemployment, perhaps 25%, the city struggles economically, and we were shocked to see graffiti everywhere (except on the ancient sites, where it is a felony). But they welcome tourists, and are well set up to show off their proud heritage. We spent a couple of wonderful days exploring the city before our cruise began, and took a side trip to ancient Corinth, the next blog following this one.
Graffiti like this was everywhere. 
But this was the view from our hotel terrace dining room on the first night. 
I asked the waiter for a recommendation. He brought me this (octopus). It was excellent. 
The buffet the following morning was equally outstanding. Greek yogurt, bread pudding, meat, fresh pastries, scrambled eggs, a light pudding. Ellen had fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, etc. Perhaps 40-50 things to choose from for breakfast every day. 
And this view greeted us. This is the temple of Olympian Zeus, across the street from the hotel. It was built by the Roman emperor Hadrian. The picture does not capture the massive size. 
The view from the ancient agora (marketplace). In the foreground is the tower of the winds, with each of the eight sides representing a god who supposedly controlled the wind from that direction. 
We had the opportunity to see the Acropolis up close and personal. I bought my hat for the trip here, a Greek fisherman’s cap and Ellen is sporting her sun hat. 
And later this view from the high point of the city. Here Ellen appears to be holding the temple in the palm of her hand. 
Apart from the Acropolis complex (the green just to right of center), the city is a crowded maze. 
With a new picturesque view everywhere.
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